When starting drainage with new construction, the typical process is to start from the master drain on the bottom level and work on up. However, the odd addition could be involved such as installing the top vent through a roof before the roofers do their work on the roof.

So, with that said, let's go through a quick checklist of the process, and cover them in more detail later. It sort of begins with digging out ground for a house with a slab, or crawl space work for a house that has one. This article will deal with the former....a house with a concrete slab and no crawlspace.


  1. Digging
  2. Insert Sump(if required)
  3. Layout and glue pipe on grade
  4. Cap the pipe
  5. Testing


This one is an obvious no-brainer. We grab the spade and dig deep enough to accommodate the graded pipe. Once we know we are good to go, we can move on.

Sump Pump

In some homes, the actual basement of the lot can be much lower than the sewer pipes that collect sewage from the houses in the neighbourhood. Therefore, the drainage much get pumped up from the lowest point in the house drainage system and into the  town(or city) sewer lines.

This transfer in handled by a sump pump located in a tank. Thus, as a reminder, all drainage from the house will end up here before it moves out of the house. This includes everything from the toilets, sinks and other waste systems like washing machines and dishwashers.

The sump depth will be determined by the height of the inflow pipe which will exist under the poured concrete. However, the top of the sump and access will be accessible after concrete if poured, for obvious reasons.

Layout and Glue Pipe

After the digging is complete and the sump is level and back-filled, we can continue assembling the ABS via measuring, cutting, levelling and gluing. After that, we can back-fill and cover up the pipe while leaving the top exposed for the inspector.

Cap The Pipe

All of the pipe will need to be capped except for one opening which will be taller than the rest, which will be used to fill it up with plain water, water/glycol if the weather is very cold and pipes are at a risk to freeze.


At this point, we expect the system to hold the water and be leak free. If not, we find the weak spot and ensure it does not leak, and test again.